Skiing The Haute Route: Everything you Need to Know

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A Classic Ski Tour: The Haute Route

In the world of ultimate ski trips, there is one that is often at the top of every adventure skier’s bucket list – The Haute Route. Meaning “High Road” in English, The Haute Route traverses the French and Swiss Alps from Chamonix, France to Zermatt, Switzerland. As we head into Spring ski season, I can’t help but reflect on our Haute Route trip in 2017 with a group of very experienced ski friends and two professional guides (highly recommended for this trip). During the seven-day trip, our group set out to conquer the Haute Route while crossing glaciers and high mountain passes using mountaineering equipment and touring skis.

For a preview of the trip, check out the trailer video below. The full video of the trip is long but well worth the time as it’s a documentary of our entire trip.

Chamonix to Zermatt

Haute Route Day 1 – Skiing Argentière to Refuge Albert Premier

Our Haute Route trip begins with us all meeting in Martigny. From here we take the train to Argentière, then take the lifts up and Ski/Hike to Refuge Albert Premier. Originally we were to go to the Refuge Argentière, but it was completely booked. I think most people were there since Albert Premier was not so crowded.

Climbing stats – 6 miles (9.6 km), 5 hrs 49 minutes, 2810 ft (856 M) ascent, 2396 ft (730 M) descent

*Track in red represents our first day from Argentière to Refuge Albert Premier, going up the famed Col du Passon*

Our guides inspected our gear at 7am, and off we went on the 7:45 am train to Argentierre. Our Haute Route trip has begun!

The train ride up the Gorge du Trient was very cool, and time went by very quickly. From there, the walk from the train station to the telecabin station for the Grand Montets was our warm-up for this – our first day of the Haute Route.

Originally we had planned to take the Lognan Telecabin, followed by the Grand Montets with a nice ski down across the Argentièrre Glacier to our first big climb of the Col de Passon. Unfortunately, the wind gods were not with us. It was snowing and blowing like crazy. The Grands Montets telecabin was closed (and it has since actually burned down). Instead, we had to take the HERSE chair lift which added to our hike for this first day, so instead of skiing down to our first big climb – we climbed to it!

*Lift Map of the Grand Montets area. You can see the HERSE chairlift far left. From there small ski down, then hike up across the glacier. Pink line is our approx track over to the Col du Passon.*

Upon arriving at the top of the HERSE chairlift, we’re ready to take a small downhill run on some icy pistes and begin our first ascent of the well known Col du Passon. Our goal for the day is to make our way to the Refuge Albert Premier. The original plan was to stay at Refuge Argentière, but it was booked a month ahead of time, so our plan shifted to the Refuge Albert Premier.

*Approaching the Argentière Glacier. We’re heading up to the left corner of this picture.*

*Our whole group heading towards the Mountain peaks behind us!*

*On the Argentière Glacier, moving slowly towards our first Col. One step closer…*

*The red arrows show the top and bottom of the Col du Passon as we make our approach. If you look closely you will see small groups of people climbing up! It was steeeeep.*

*Celebrating at the top of the Col du Passon – happy indeed!*

*The small arrow in the lower right is the Refuge Albert premier – which sits on a stone outcropping. This will be our first nights stay.*

*A closer look at Refuge Albert 1er in lower left. Bathroom is in lower building, whose path was icy, and horrifyingly dangerous to get to.*

*Nothing is easy to get to – nothing! Final approach to our first nights cabin.*

Inside Albert Premier, it is comfortable and not very crowded, as most start with Refuge Argentiere instead. Dinner is good, and thanks to Eric for carrying up the delicious dessert wine – a 2011 Grains de Malice seen on the table.

*We are graced with some cool views out on the Argentière glacier and a cool sunset.*

*Standard fare – bunks, rows of them, and we’re tucked into our silk liners to avoid the “stinky sheets.” Must have – EAR PLUGS*

Haute Route Day 2 – Refuge Albert Premier to Cabane du Trient

First Breakfast in a hut – and early start off to Trient.

Climbing stats – 4.75 miles (7.6 km), 5 hrs 38 min, 2437 ft (715 M) ascent, 907 ft (277 M) descent

On our second day of the Haute Route we covered the ski trek from Refuge Albert Premier to the Cabane du Trient. This took us through the Col du Midi, with some scary high winds. Most would do the Col Superieure du Tour, but the guides thought this track would be better with the high winds.

*The rocky climb of the Col du Midi – with monster winds.*

*Beth reaches the top of the Col du Midi, with winds that were difficult to stand up in.*

It was around this point that the guides noticed that Phil’s nose wasn’t his normal nose and that he was developing some signs of frostbite. Phil was “mister covered face” for the rest of the day!

er covered face” for the rest of the day!

*On the big, white, vertigo-inducing (ask Phil) push fest slog to the Cabane du Trient.*

*Cabane du Trient – so close, and yet, another climb up a hill to get there.*

*Cabin life clothing – a luxury item on this trip!!*

Inside the Cabane du Trient where we enjoy dinner and take in the awesome views of the beautiful sunset before turning in for the night. A great way to end day two of the Haute Route!

Haute Route Day 3 – Cabane du Trient to Cabane des Dix – multiple stages

Well, this is a crazy day. Originally we were supposed to go from Cabane du Trient to Cabane du Mont Fort. However, the guides realized the trip the day after – from Cabane du Mont Fort to Cabane des Dix – would be too much for our group. Two itineraries were proposed:

Option 1) Ski down to Champex, and take bus to Arolla, stay in hotel, and ascend to Cabane des Dix the next day.

Option 2) Skin up about a mile on day 3 to a helicopter approved landing area, then Heli over to Rosablanche and continue on to Cabane des Dix by ski that day.

Option 2 was only about 120 Fr more per person than Option 1, so all of us went with the Heli option.

Climbing stats – part 1 to the Heli landing spot – 1.3 miles (2 km), 1 hrs 15 minutes, 706 ft (215 M) ascent, 361 ft (110 M) descent

*Day 3 Morning trek up to approved Heli Landing spot for heli trip to Rosablanche!! Blue line is the border between Switzerland and Italy – the Cabane is in Switzerland*

*The Cabane du Trient in the morning light*

*Look closely at the sun/shadow line, and you’ll see a small group of people leaving!*

*The slow march away from the Cabane du Trient… up to our heli trip!*

*Getting close as the “the ants go marching 2 by 2!”*

*de – Cabane du Trient to theRosablanche – the alternative to spending the night in Arolla… 17.5 miles (28 km) , 16 minute ride*

Now it’s time to Climb the Rosablanche to the top, climb down, and trek over to the Cabane des Dix. The below image illustrates the next phase.

Climbing stats – part 3 to the Rosa Blanche to Cabane des Dix – 7.8 miles (12.6 km), 7 hours, elev gain 2631 ft (802 M), elev loss 3937 ft (1200 M)

*Climbing up to the peak of the Rosablanche*

*View from Rosablanche down to the Lac des Dix where we’re going next…*

*Beth, Phil, Geert – Jan and the guides making the final descent*

*Skiing some fine powder off of the Rosablanche!*

After skiing the great snow off of the Rosablanche, our descent down to the Lac des Dix began with a run down the Couloir de la Rosablanche. This couloir is well known to the ski racers of the Patrouille des Glaciers – the race between Zermatt and Verbier. For an image of what this Couloir looks like filled with racers going up, click here!

*After skiing the top of the Rosablanche, we take a hard right and ski the Couloir de la Rosablanche shown in red and onto the Glacier de Mourti down to the Lac des Dix*

*Getting past the initial rocks on the headwall of the couloir du rosa blanche, looking down onto the Lac des Dix*

*First tracks on the Glacier de Mourti, the couloir is hidden up to the right*

*Our long traverse along the edge of the Lac des Dix. We will head down to it and then start up our next climb – the Pas de Chat. The Pigne D’Arolla at 3800 Meters is our goal in two days!*

*The Pas de Chat, shown with some arrows, taken from the Lac des Dix*

*The long and winding road. The Pas de Chat is a tough one, and it was hot this day! Running out of water didn’t help either*

*Just around the bend – PLEASE ! We slowly make our way to the Cabane des Dix*

*There it is – the Cabane des Dix – finally!!*

*Views out our room from the Cabane des Dix*

*What’s a hut without slippers – and nice colors too! We all liked the Cabane des Dix!!*

Haute Route Day 4 – Rest Day at the Cabane des Dix

After a long Day 3, we decided to make Day 4 a rest day. Great day to explore the hut a little more! Martin, our guide, explained that too often groups get into their huts at night, eat, go to bed, and never really get to know the character of their hut – this extra day at Cabane des Dix was awesome!!

Some of our group stayed in the hut and relaxed for the day. A few of us skinned up to La Luette to hit a local peak. For those of us that skinned up to La Luette, we were granted with what Martin called “Mouse knee-deep powder” at the beginning, but real powder at the top!

Climbing stats – 3.75 miles (6km) , 3 hrs 55 minutes, 2000 ft (610 M) ascent, 2000 ft (610 M)descent

*Our up and down tracks for a quick trip up to La Luette!*

*A portion of our group starting out on our skin up to La Luette – you can see the Cabane des Dix perched on a small hill behind us.*

*A view from La Luette, looking back on the Lac des Dix where we had come from the day before!*

*The highest peak in the distance towards the right is our final destination – The Matterhorn, and Zermatt!*

Tip: Skip carrying a picnic lunch and go for the Rösti option in the Cabane, it is the way to go! Plus, none of the other huts could come close to the Cabane des Dix with regards to Beer selection – they must have had 10-15 choices, while others had 2.

Haute Route Day 5 – Skiing Cabane des Dix to Cabane des Vignettes

Day 5 starts early. Up at 4:30 am, we leave at 5:30 for the ascent on the Pigne D’Arolla. We had some illness in the group the day before (altitude sickness and perhaps some Asthma), and were worried about a possible need for evacuation. But, thankfully, we pulled it all together and we were ready to go for this big day! It was “headlamps on” and snowing when we started, and we were definitely the first group up and out the door!

Climbing stats – 6.33 miles (10.2 km) , 11 hrs 56 minutes, 3080 ft (939 M) ascent, 2271 ft (692 M) descent

*The trek from Cabane des Dix on the left, to Cabane des Vignettes on the right. The icon of the green mountain is the Pigne D’Arolla, our highest peak on the trip at 3800 meters*

*Our Departure Cabin, and the top goal on this day*

*It was snowing hard at times, and we had 6-8″ of new snow when we reached the top*

*The familiar line, marching forward. Always watching the booths of those in front!!! Visibility was poor!*

*using for a group picture after getting to one peak – the hardest part of the day was yet to come!*

*As we got closer to the “Serpentine,” a steep glacier portion, we were a bit worried about, the snow was really coming down!*

Side Story: What can happen on the Haute Route

There is a little side story that happened just around the time the picture above was taken. Visibility was horrible, you couldn’t see landmarks, etc…. Our guides stopped, checked their topo maps, altimeter and compass. I offered them a peek at my GAIA app that had topo and a GPS location on it, but they said “no, we’re ok.”

Another guide from Chamonix, leading another group who had been here the week before, passed us and veered to the right. I’m sure there might have been some second-guessing from our guides, but they were confident and we continued on.

We were the first group to hit the Serpentine. Who do you think pulled up behind us about 40 minutes after we last saw them? The group from Chamonix! Our guides were very modest about this, saying it could happen to anyone. But we couldn’t help but snicker at how the Tortoise (definitely our group), beat the hare – at least to the Serpentine!

Interested in other Backcountry Ski Tour options? Check out this guide that outlines all the different ways you can experience Backcountry Skiing.

*Waiting for our Guide Martin ( who you can see up ahead), to clear some small avalanches, and try and dig some steps into the ice on this scary face of the Serpentine!*

*Phil, with crampons and all, leading the 2nd group up the ice face. According to Lauren, he was basically carrying her up the face with the rope!*

*Happy to be done with the Serpentine – now on to the Pigne D’Arolla!*

*Roped in on our final approach – going to the upper left…*

*Martin, with Beth, Phil, and Lauren pulling up the rear. Getting close!*

*Group photo near the Pigne D’Arolla – it was a bit cold and windy to stay very long…*

*What a run down from the Pigne!!! All I know is far left is Guide Martin’s tracks, then mine (Jeff’s), followed by Gijs (3rd from left), everyone else’s is a blur!! They ALL look good to me 😉*

*After a long, great descent, the Cabane des Vignettes is visible on the cliff that it is perched on!!*

*The view out of our room at the Cabane des Vignettes!*

*This is my main memory from the trek I did in ’85. That building you see used to be the bathroom, with a hole in the toilet seat that must have looked down the cliff 500 meters!*

*The people and the birds were both interested in the drone!*

*Shot of Vignettes showing it’s precarious perch on the cliff – wouldn’t wanted to have been on the construction team for this building!*

*So, one can have chocolate eclairs for desert when you burn 10 million calories a day*

*Great sunset from the bunk room window !*

Haute Route Day 6 – Cabane des Vignettes to Schönbielhütte

Day 6 started with a departure at 6:30 am. This was one of the longest days for all of us with 3 Col’s to climb – the Col de L’Eveque, the very steep Col du Mont Brulé, and the mentally draining Col du Valpelline. The ski run down beside the Matterhorn was amazing, but the final ascent up the Moraine (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moraine) to the hut was gruelling. There were times when rocks slid down the hill towards us. The joke of the day was that it was the Chamois pushing the rocks down on us.

The departure from the Cabane des Vignettes was not exactly pleasant as everyone in the hut was leaving at the same time. It was probably 120 people, and the sketchy icy path out of the hut potentially leading to a 500m fall off a cliff! Most people on this trek would go all the way to Zermatt (which I had done back in ’85), but we chose an alternate route including a stopover at an uncrowded Cabane Schöbielhütte. This is a super cool hut right next to the Matterhorn. That way we could then arrive early in Zermatt on our last day with no rushing necessary.

Climbing stats – 13.66 miles (22 km) , 11 hrs 14 minutes, 4196 ft (1279 M) ascent, 5696 ft (1736 M) descent

*The long trek from Vignettes to Schönbielhütte*

*Saying goodbye to the Cabane des Vignettes!*

*Starting our slow, COOOLD march to the 1st Col de l’Eveque*

*rs is where a skier went down sick and had to be helicoptered out – he was shivering badly.*

*Boy did the sun feel good at the top of this first Col!!*

*Our approach to the wicked steep Col du Mont Brulé – which was incorrectly referred to on this trek as the Col du Bouquetin*

*Our group getting closer to this 2nd of the day’s Col.*

*Another celebration at the top of the Col du Mont Brulé*

*Skins back on, and 20 minute food break, then off we go again*

*Skinning up to the top of the last Col on this trip – Col du Valpelline – a mentally tiring one for me!*

*Great descent down from Valpelline with the Matterhorn behind us*

*What a long run down beside the Matterhorn!*

*Final tough ascent towards Schönbielhütte – you can see our skin tracks in the snow behind us.*

*So happy!!! Valaisan flag flying high!*

*We had the hut almost completely to ourselves*

*Required pose in front of the Matterhorn!*

*Sunset looking down the valley towards Zermatt*

Haute Route Day 7 – Schönbielhütte to Zermatt

Day 7 is our easy day – a cruisy, relaxing run all the way down to Zermatt.

Climbing stats – 7.23 miles (11.6 km), 1 hrs 58 minutes, 6 ft (2 M) ascent, 3477 ft (1060 M) descent

*Our last day on the haute route, a nice downhill finish*

*Our last hut meal, everyone in the picture!*

*The end of the trek, as far as skis go*

*The last time all together as a group, pizza in the sun of Zermatt – the Brushetta Pizza was amazing….*

*Lauren and I, and Phil and Beth spent the night in Zermatt*

*We hiked up at night for Lauren to get some cool night shots of Zermatt and the Matterhorn. The pink light was from the music festival*

Does the Haute Route sound awesome to you? Looking to get started with Backcountry Skiing? Check out our Backcountry Skiing Know Before You Go blog.

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